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More Great Information on Concrete Stepping:
Model Train Scenery – Building A Concrete Road by Walt Olszowy
Certain Scenes in a model railroad layout may call for a concrete road. The 2 primary materials used for the base of the road are styrene sheets and cork. I have found that 0.60 thick styrene is the easiest to work with. The thickness of the cork will be determined by the height of your track. This is particularly important if you plan on having the road cross the track on your layout.
1) The first step is to map out and mark where your street will be. There are scale rulers available for the different train gauges. They are extremely helpful in keeping your layout proportionally accurate. If you have one, use it to determine the scale width of your road. (e.g. If you are building a 4 lane highway than the scale width would be 45').
2) Cut the cork to the length and width of your road with a utility knife and place on your layout. Secure the cork template to your bench work with a hot glue gun. Next cut the styrene to your roads length and width with your utility knife. If you are crossing a track, mark the areas in which the track intersects the large piece of styrene, then with your utility, score and snap the styrene, laying it into place to see if it fits. Adjust as needed.
3) Next step is 'scoring 'the styrene road. We accomplish this by measuring the styrene road with your scale ruler and measure to the middle of your road. Take your utility knife, flipping it upside down and score down the middle of your street. Now, perpendicular to your vertical line, score expansion joints every 20 scale feet. Use a straight edge as a guide as you score. You want the scored lines to be visible, however be careful not to cut through the styrene.
4) Once this is done take some gray primer and spray the styrene in a well-ventilated area, preferably outside. Once the styrene road is dried you can attach to your cork road bed, again using a hot glue gun.
5) Road Markings- Now depending on how detailed you want your layout to be you can go to MDOT Railroad Crossings Guidelines and get the actual specifications for railroad crossings, if your layout has one or more.
Using a PRISMACOLOR white colored pencil, masking tape and a scale ruler, mark the requisite 2 foot thick line, located 15 feet from the center line of the track, or 8 feet from the descended arms of the crossing gate. Use this same pencil, and masking tape to create a center line on your road. If you have a 4 lane road you can create double yellow lines or stripped passing lines according to scale. It is all up to you as to the level of detail you want.
6) Weathering the road- it is up to you as to what you can do to give road a more realistic feel. One suggestion is to use a mixture of craft acrylic paints and create tire marks, oil drips, rain grates, and so forth. Another product I like to use is weathering powder. You can purchase a gray powder to tone down the sprayed concrete color of your road. It is the little details that add such life and realism to an eye-popping model train layout.
About the Author
I am an Internet Marketer and I want to help people who are wanting to have their own online business. Also, I have 3 websites http://www.allaboutmodeltrainlayouts.com, http://www.ipadfreetrialipad3.com, http://www.abstruthdiet.com
What can I use to keep homemade concrete stepping stones from crumbling or breaking?
I use Quikrete and I like to add imprints. I also tint with Quikrete brand Cement Coloring. I've tried adding rebar and have even used Quikrete brand Concrete Acrylic Fortifier, yet they begin crumbling after only one year. My molds are 3 inches thick. Any advice?
cut up 6x6 welded wire mesh and pour half your stone,put the mesh in,then pour the other half.Quick setting concrete is great for emergencies,but you sacrifice strength for speed with quick setting,use regular concrete mix,and dont mix it too wet,when mixed properly,it shouldnot be runny.pour it,then trowel the top smooth,let it et for an hour,then trowel it again ,then do your imprint. chicken wire is too thin and will rust and break within a year or two.If you have used rebar,and they still break and crumble,then you arent mixing your concrete properly.it needs to be mixed and of a thick consistency,troweling concrete will bring water to the surface.no puddles or pockets of water should be visible after mixing,concrete has to be "worked" for it to set properly,meaning troweled etc.Are you tapping your form with a hammer after it has been pured??this settles the concrete and forces air out.











































































